Railay Beach: Thailand

We boarded the general ferry and headed to Railay Beach. This boat was quiet, nice and roomy with old airplane seats and a/c. As we proceeded closer to Railay we could see the tide was out and there was no way the ferry would be able to dock. As they were announcing for us to get ready to disembark there were long tail boats already pulled up beside and we were ushered onto these traditional Thailand boats and whisked away to shore. These boats then stopped short of the beach where we proceeded to disembark into knee deep water and walk to shore while carrying kids and luggage.

Railay Beach is another one of Thailand’s hourglass-shaped shore lines with a stretch of sand joining the two beaches. The east bay is not really swimmable and lined with mangrove trees, a floating pier and a lengthly tide that leaves you with mud when it is out. The west side is the place you want to be, or at least spend your days at. The area is in fact attached to the mainland, however the towering limestone cliffs make it boat access only and give it an island feel. These stunning rock walls are the main attraction for the area with rock climbers scaling the faces with every turn of your head. It is not uncommon to see brave individuals a couple hundred feet up enjoying the sunset similar to yourself down on the beach. The breathtaking nature in the area draws all sorts of crowds and the accommodation varies in price accordingly. The nightlife is not as dominant like its neighbouring Koh Phi Phi, however there will always be a place to go for a 2am party of drinks and marijuana and finish the night off with a tattoo if that’s what you are looking for.

Our feet touched the sand just in time for sunset. We approached on the west side and were staying on the east side so we made our way on foot through the vehicle-less strip of shops and restaurants towards our hotel. It was also active monkey time and those guys were lined up and down the walkway walls. These intimidating creatures made all of us uneasy so the girls sprang into our arms with no chance of letting go. We were so distracted, hot and sweaty that somehow we missed our turn and ended up at a dead end. After we doubled back past the monkeys again we finally located our hotel on the east side. After a quick check in to drop our bags, we found the treehouse restaurant for dinner and enjoyed a pizza and fruit smoothies four metres in the air. The girls were very excited about this as we climbed a staircase and ate up on the second level. The thick tropical foliage and rustic construction seemed like an actual treehouse complete with sparkling lights and the sound of the water weaving its way through the mangrove trees.

Morning arrived and I decided to jog through the jungle and up to the hidden lagoon to see if it was something we could take the girls to. I had heard it was a tough, steep incline and required all hands on deck to climb up and down to this lagoon and that it was not somewhere to take young kids. The only way in or out of this body of water was by scrambling it. It is fairly small and the water seeps through the ground so at low tide you are left with mud. I jogged to the trailhead and then forged my way deeper into the thick jungle. I got to the point where it was quite steep and would require a bit more focus. I could also see a sneak peak of the lagoon itself and it had no water in it. So I decided I had assessed it enough and would turn around and take a left fork to the viewpoint. Doing this at 7 am was the perfect time for no crowds, but not for the waterless lagoon. Always check the tide chart around here. The viewpoint was just a little peak a boo view of both east and west Railay and the surrounding mountains but so tranquil and peaceful up there.

After returning to the room to wake the others we shifted to the hotel restaurant for our included buffet breakfast then packed our bags and headed for the Phra Nang Beach. I also scouted this out during my run and it was a dream come true. As you wind your way your way through the stalactites and shallow caves on the walking path your view opens up to a small stretch of sand just 20 metre wide between the tropical blue ocean and mesmerizing limestone cliffs. The sand has a shaded area for most of the day with sections where the afternoon sun can warm your body even more than the general heat and humidity. The water it is true Thailand fashion and does not need anymore details. The only issue is that is can be fairly busy as tour boats make the trip here so the people come in surges. Many come for the beauty of the Krabi nature but most have a peak at the cave just steps further. Entering the cave is frowned upon but most will be more entertained by the good luck offerings in front of it. The Phra Nang Cave or Princess Cave is sacred and the religious beliefs boasts fertility and virility. This is why the entrance is lined with wooden carvings of Penis’. Penis’ of all shapes, sizes and colours are piled up in the sand. Rumour has it that if you carve a wooden penis and release it during high tide, it will eventually end up in the Phra Nang Cave.

After a few hours of watching climbers, swimming and relaxing we decided it was time to check out the Lagoon. High tide was upon us and so was the heat of the day. We returned past the stalactites and stopped at the trail head. Hard to actually call it a path as there is a rope and steep climb within 2 steps off the main trail. The four of us scrambled our way up the face grabbing onto tree roots and mud piles where ever we could. The girls held their own as we climbed higher and higher into the hillside. I should add, all of us were just wearing flip flops, not the best footwear but we made do. Eventually it flattened out at a trail fork and sign. The right path headed for the lagoon and that was our destination. Across the plateau then down we headed. The girls struggled a bit more with this and eventually we came to an area where they could not move any further, my stopping point from before. Others were making the climb as well and bottlenecks were becoming an issue. Unlike climbing Mount Everest, we were in no danger of freezing to death on the mountain side. Dehydration and heat exhaustion was our concern. We assessed the situation, had a chat with the girls and chose to climb through a hole in the rock then down the vertical face with the girls on our back in our Trail Majik Carriers. We were now 30 minutes in and only steps away from the lagoon. The dramatic contrast between brilliant blue sky, textured grey walls and vibrant green foliage would leave us and everyone else speechless. Sheer rock drops with tree vines dangling down to the water’s edge towered over our heads with a peaceful bliss of dampened noise that added to the sensation. Needless to say, it was well worth the adventurous hike in. We proceeded our way out the way we came with onlookers questioning how the girls got into this place. We made the quick side trip to the bay lookout for panoramic views of the area.

Once returning to the land of the flat it was now 4:00 and we had little to no lunch. It was time for a meal, early dinner if you may. After flipping through the menu at the ocean side restaurant we decided on some traditional Pad Thai and a chicken burger. Returning to our room with mango smoothies in hand, we made a stop at the pool to enjoy the last bit of daylight and a refreshing dip.

All nestled in our room now with the girls ready to sleep Bexley started mentioning that her stomach didn’t feel well. The next five hours took a turn for the worst. It was like a war zone. I was first to go down, then followed by Lidija while sleeping in bed. Tyson managed to hold out until 2:00 am or so but the toxic food wanted out of everyone the fastest way possible. There was garbage cans and the tops cut off four litre water jugs just to try to contain the shrapnel. By 3:00 am everyone was exhausted and out for the count. All but the original complainer, Bexley had somehow managed to avoid getting sick. Let me say, it takes a lot to tend to a sick child when you, the adult, can barely take care of yourself let alone both adults down.

The following day was a day of nothing. Energy was at an all time low and spirits were even lower. True to fashion, Bexley was feeling fine and getting a bit bored and hungry but her loving family wanted nothing to do with anything. 10:00 we made an attempt to head out but it was short lived as walking anywhere in the 30 degree heat was daunting. Back to the room we went. Tyson forged ahead on his own and managed to return with a strawberry smoothie for Bex and a fresh mango and salty crackers for anyone else. By 3:00 we all managed to get to get on our feet and head out for a walk. We proceeded around to the Diamond Cave where a ฿100 entrance fee gains you access to a boardwalk through an illuminated limestone cave taking you 150 metres or so into the rock. The walk could easily be done in 5 minutes but 25 minutes later after examining the formations in all direction and multiple stops to muster up any sort of energy we managed to get out. On our way back to the room the lingering monkeys could have taken us all down with a single stare but we elected to push on. We picked up some fresh fruit and a plate of salty french fries and settled in for the night, dinner was served. Lights out by 8:00, time to recover.

Morning was a bit of a sad day. We all made it through the night, everyone was feeling skinny and unfortunately due to previous reservations we were forced to leave Railay Beach without exploring the other beaches or testing any of the other restaurants. We made our way to Koh Lanta where we decided that we were a bit robbed of our Railay time so a handful of days later we caught the general passenger ferry for the two hour journey back to the secluded beaches. This time we off loaded into the longtail boats on the west side and had a reservation back at the same place for a quick and easy transfer. From here we spent the continuing 4 days relaxing and swimming in the sun, chasing crabs and watching the sun set over the stretched out tide as locals play soccer on the beach. We enjoyed pizza, skewers, pad Thai, tropical fruit shakes and Italian sodas. This is the Railay that we wanted the first time around and it was spectacular.

Our Previous island hop was in KOH PHI PHI

And our next beach adventure took us to KOH LANTA

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