The south of Egypt; hot, dry and full of life. As we exited the international airport, after our 75 minute, $45 flight from Cairo we could instantly feel the change.

The sky was blue and the landscape was baron. As we neared the taxi stand we were instantly confronted with drivers that could take us anywhere we’d like. At a starting price of $35US we knew we were in for a treat. After holding our ground and making some fake phone text messages later we settle on 350LE, around $10US. The drive was a peaceful 15 minutes past both the upper and lower dams on the Nile river that created one of the worlds largest man made lakes of Lake Nasser. Getting dropped off at the shore we boarded a ferry, 5LE, across to Elephantine Island and into our waiting hotel. Elephantine island is, for some reason unknown to us, always a destination of tours and sailboat hustlers. There is a museum and an old Bedouin Village but we really had trouble finding all that much to do there other than wander through the toppled over stone fences and weave your way around the dusty dirt walking paths. We ate at the one restaurant that we could find, The Jamaica King, and never ventured to the far north end where the colossal of a resort hotel, The Movenpick, was located. We stayed there because the nights were peaceful and the accommodation was inexpensive.

Day two morning we cooked our own breakfast before catching the ferry back to the east shore for a wander around Aswan with plans of getting organized for the next few days. Our mission was to find our way on to one of the many large scale boats that make constant trips between Aswan and Luxor with stops at the shoreside temples. We didn’t see all that many tourists and we couldn’t see the end to the quantity of boats so I knew this should be an easy task. Finding the right person to talk to and agreeing on a price point may be the biggest challenge however. With Egypt being Egypt, it will always come to you. After turning down three horse drawn carriages and four taxis in the first two minutes we came across a man in a yellow shirt that made one phone call for us. Within the hour we had toured a boat, seen the amenities and agreed on a price for a 4-day/3-night tour from Aswan to Luxor complete with guided tours to three temples (not including entry fee to the temples) and a trip to the West Bank upon arrival in Luxor. As we walked away with an eligible piece of paper from the silver and gold jewelry shop after paying I will admit I was having second thoughts. For more on this Nile cruise arrangement click here.

With the Muslim fasting festival of Ramadan still in full swing we enjoyed a late KFC lunch as best we could before casually making our way back to the island for the remainder of the day. With an amazing traditional dinner back at The Jamaica King, we skirted around the dog fights back to our room then washed the day’s dust and grime off our feet.

The following morning we were all packed up and ready to move. By 10:00 am we were off the island and climbed into the awaiting taxi on route to the boat, maybe this would work out well after all. Down the stairs to the riverside and were greeted with a welcome drink of orange tang before being escorted to the room at the front of the boat, main floor. I was impressed now and our schedule was about to begin. Traditionally we would not sign up for these sorts of things, schedules, routines and lack of freedom, especially with kids as it’s not really a highlight for us, but we would be guaranteed food and a pool and would see how it would go. A traditional Egyptian buffet lunch, with some western options was opening at noon.

Then there was an awaiting A/C mini van with one other passenger waiting for us by 1:00 on route to the ancient Philae Temple located on an island between the upper and lower dam. 200LE and a 10 minute boat ride had us on the shore for our first tour we had reserved. We had a predetermined 60 minutes on location where the first 30 involved a detailed guide explaining the story of the gods that the temple was dedicated to. The remainder was free time to do as we pleased. Philae Temple was actually submerged in water when the lower dam was constructed then saved as the government of Egypt and UNESCO pulled it apart block by block and relocated it 300m to the island it currently resides at. This was mind blowing really!

After returning back to the ship for dinner we were free to roam at will between the boat and drylands as the boat would be mored until morning.

Morning came, breakfast consumed and we chose to make a quick trip to the market for some last minute purchases as any drinks on board including water, came at an extra and elevated cost.

Security ensured us that we had to be back by 1:00 as the boat was leaving with or without us. We returned by 1:00 after selling out the bicycle water vender that was lingering in the shadow of the nearest tree. 1:00 came and went. We ate a quick lunch below deck before racing to the 4th and top sun deck to relax in the lounge chairs and swim in the pool making sure not to miss the maneuvering of these rather large vessels in this rather small and congested river. 1:00….2:00…3:00…Hmm starting to wonder on this schedule of theirs. By 3:30 the fog horns blew and we were now on the move. The shoreline was rather amazing from the high deck of a cruise ship. You can see just how important the Nile River is to the country of Egypt. Water gives way to the lush green shores of palm trees as aqueduct channel liquid gold to flooded fields for growing crops and vegetables. Beyond that is endless amounts of nothingness. Flat sand deserts give way to desolate mountain way back on the horizon. The Nile River truly is a lifeline for all that lives near it.

Our 25% full boat was just one in the line of dozens of others making their way north. The desert heat was combated by the constant wind and a dip in the cooler then desired pool.

6:00 that evening we pulled along side awaiting boats then walked our way through the others onto the river bank in the city of Kom Ombo. From here it was just a quick 5 minute stroll, 160LE and a larger than desired crowd to get through the gates of Kom Ombo Temple. This was an evening tour that puts an entirely different aspect of things as the spot lights make for an amazing glow of all the pillars and engraved temple walls. Kom Ombo construction started around 180 BC then additions were added by the Roman as the years passed. It was built for two separate gods which is a rarity for Egypt. Just like the previous tours, half our time was ours to wander free as we pleased. A small stop at a crocodile mummification museum completed off our time on land where we weaved our way through the tourists and vendors and slid back into our seats on the boat for a perfect and peaceful evening meal. It was later than we usually do things and the girls were trying their best not to fall asleep at the dinner table. They crashed under the sheets by 10:00 with out any argument.

Morning came early for us, real early. At 3:00 am Lidija woke us up stating that she was not feeling well and was going to be sick. Shannon promptly raced her to the washroom where the two of them revisited every 10 minutes for the next 4 hours.

After Kom Ombo we had actually set back out on the the river and we were making our way up to Edfu. We were scheduled for the third temple here with a visit to The Temple of Horus. This had a meeting time of 5:30 am so with Bexley still fast asleep and Shannon being fully consumed by Lidija it was decided that I would venture out alone. Meeting up with the fellow deck mates, they were slightly confused why my party of four had now been reduced to one. This was easily explained on the five minute bus ride to the temple gates. 200 LE through the flood gates as the mobs of people started to disperse. This was one of the reasons why we do not enjoy the tours. The crowds were astonishing. I think I saw more people within those temple walls than I had in all of my time in Egypt. Putting that aside, the temple was nothing short of astonishing. With walls standing 32m high, columns surrounding the courtyard, rooms and chambers within the heart of the temple and still original colour painted on ceiling and in any areas not exposed to the UV sunlight. Free time was spent trying to get any photo that did not have tourists in the back or foreground. Wannabe future instagram models were hidden in every nook and cranny of this place.

I returned to the boat slightly after 8:00 am. Shannon and Lidija were still fighting their battle and Bexley wasn’t even awake yet and didn’t even know I had left. I made trips shuttling breakfast for Shannon as Lidija would not let her leave her side.

The ship was back on the move as we watched the countryside cruise by from our open window. This was short lived as brave oarsman hosting venders would paddle near our speeding vessel and cast a line securing them to our pleasure craft. This “Captain Philips” style encounter was not in haste but for the strict purpose of selling towels and clothes. These life risking salesmen would tow a ride for kilometres in hopes of a sale then cast a line on a returning boat in the opposite direction to return them to their original location. Having an open window however was just an invitation for never ending hounding. The blinds were then closed a short while later. We joined a staging area along multiple others to wait our turn for our chance get through the Esna river lock. Boat venders came out of the reeds with hopes of a sale over the next three hours of waiting.

By now Lidija had slowed her sorrows to every hour and passed out asleep in Shannon’s arms. While Bexley and I ate in the dining hall Shannon did her best with the food I brought on a take away plate. After awaking from her four hour nap Lidija was feeling well enough to leave the room so amazingly enough she actually slipped into a bathing suit and we as a family made it to the top floor for some vitamin D.

Once we were lowered the eight meters in the lock we continued on our way to Luxor.

Splashing on the pools edge you would never believe how Lidija was feeling for the previous 12 hours. We returned to our cabin to get cleaned up and enjoy another amazing sunset from our port side window. 7:30 came around as we barged four deep on the shores 10 kms south of Luxor for the night. We then slipped down stairs for our final diner feast while Lidija only tested her stomach with a few spoon fulls of rice. Returning back to the room made for an early night for all with hopes of a peaceful sleep as tomorrow we would spend a full day of touring the Westbank and then continue our stay in Luxor while the glorious riverboat trip was coming to an end.

This again is How to find a cheap Nile cruise.

Continue to the next leg at The West Bank

Return back to the Bahariya Oasis