After arriving in the Nations Capital of San Jose later than we liked we quickly shifted from the bus depot to our close by and waiting hotel. Downtown is known for not being the safest place, and arriving after sunset brings out its darkest colours. With mattresses lying on the sidewalks and numerous hard done-byers aimlessly lurking we wasted no time to get the girls and ourselves tucked away, safely to our hotel.




The following morning we were back at the Seven-ten bus station to wait in line, for the boarding of our next bus, by 7:00 am. We were pleasantly surprised to find street sweepers cleaning up the previous nights evidence with a fully stocked bus station containing all supplies required, and one of my favourite Costa Rican chain stores, the Musmanni Bakery. With no option to pre-purchase tickets and only one bus per day this is another one we did not want to miss. The line started to form and we walked into the front seats when the doors opened. Once the wheels were turning an agent walked the isle collecting the fare.
The road winds its way north and into the volcanic countryside. The views out the window take your mind off the fact that you are dripping in sweat. The turns also put the test to one of the kids stomach and won as the plastic bags stored on the top of our carry-on bag were put to use. The twisting roads continued for the full three hours all the way to the bus station near the main square in La Fortuna.




With Bexley now recovered we donned our packs and proceeded to Sleeping Mountain Arenal hostel then back out to the streets for a bite to eat. Closing in on New Years the area was larger than life. Farmers markets were in full force along with pop up stalls vending food snacks and drinks and even a stage was set for the big celebration in a few days time. With high clouds we enjoyed every part but the very peak of the town focal point. Volcan Arenal is the centre piece of the town but draws a bit less attention these days as smoke stopped billowing from its summit ending 50 years of activity in 2010.
The following day we relaxed and enjoyed this towns quaint little charm. After a few chats with the local tour agencies we had a rough plan to successfully allocate our time and days in the area. This was until the strike of three in the morning. Shannon was promptly awoken to the sound of Lidija whimpering followed by the aftermath of what was an upset tummy. This continued for the remainder of the night with everyone nodding off and still being on high alert over the slightest of noises. The following two days proceeded in the same direction while our exhausted mother/daughter team fought to free our little girl from what ever was stricken upon her.
Bexley and I would take trips to fetch food, soda cracker snacks and ginger ale as Lidija would not let Shannon leave her side. We enjoyed our New Years fireworks tucked away in our room with hopes that this is not a bug that would lurk its way to the remainder of our family. Four days later on January second, the dust had now settled after the battle and Lidija took her first steps back into the daylight and deemed the victor. Weary to venture far we made small strides in the town square to regain strength and increase confidence.




With increasing spirits in some members and boredom in others it was time to take advantage of the day. With a 2520 Colóns Uber ride to the La Fortuna Waterfall and a backpack stocked with swim gear and lunch we were ready for the day. The $20 US per adult is a tough pill to swallow but we put our wrist bands on and made our way to the wooded view point platform overlooking the spectacular 75 meter drop from lush tropical green foliage to the glistening aquamarine pool at its base. We could hear the water crashing down along side the excited screams of zip liners as they crossed the canyon adjacent. Lidija was still feeling weak and Shannon, always feeling strong, made for a perfect combination as the two proceeded their way in unison down the 500 engineered cliff side steps to the canyon bottom.






We joined the awaiting tourists as we worked our way in for the perfect crowd-less photo opportunity and location to drop our pack and settle in for lunch and the views. This was followed by a refreshing swim in the base pool on my part as I fought the never ending current that pushes you back to shore.






We eventually took the one minute stroll down river where everyone is free to enjoy the relaxing dip in the cool river water. Both girls were excited to chase the fish that accurately slalomed their way between legs and took their rightful place in the water. A further 500 vertical steps returned us back to our original location some 90 minutes earlier to collect our 6 km Uber ride back to town.
Seeing how spirits were high and productive days had not been in our favour over the last few, we had a casual regroup then arranged for another 2330 Colóns Uber ride to Relax Termalitias for an evening soak in the volcanically heated hot springs. These pools were more than what I had expected as the areas ambiance was second to none. With 10 pools of varying sizes and temperatures tucked away in secluded pockets shrouded with trees and rainforest vegetation.






However just five minutes beyond the entrance gates, Lidija’s sickness strikes again like minor aftershock following a 6.2 earthquake. Now back on our toes we dance lightly through the pools as we walk the tightrope of not disturbing the beast within and enjoying as much as we can. Being well after dark now and spending a couple hours relaxing in the mineral waters we chose to cash in our chips and head for the room. $8 US per person well spent.
After our time in La Fortuna we chose to make some changes, continue north to Liberia then cross over the border into Nicaragua after only 11 days of the Colón currency. It took us 3 buses to get from La Fortuna to Liberia. It flowed incredibly well with the connecting buses being a smooth transition.





Once we got to Liberia we decided to use some of our points and stay at the Best Western. This was probably the fanciest place we stayed on our travels. There were peacocks roaming the grounds along with two meter iguanas. This was a huge hit with the girls.






We ended up spending three nights here as one of the kids wasn’t feeling well come travel day. Not a bad place to rest. We knew our next travel day was going to be a long one as we would be crossing the border into Nicaragua.
Costa Rica is genuinely is an amazing country. With 28% of the land being protected area and national parks it would make for a true paradise to outdoor nature lovers. Its “Pura Vida” lifestyle and culture produces some heartwarming people. All that mixed with some rainforest volcanoes and sandwiched between the Pacific and Caribbean Oceans produces a spectacular melting pot for perfection. With extreme adventures like white water rafting, zip-lining, waterfall jumping and surfing along with more casual activities of yoga, spas, beach relaxing and hot springs there really is something for nearly everyone. With the sickness set aside, Costa Rica has been a bit of a battle for us however. For what ever reason it was not sitting well. We sometimes describe ourselves as budget travellers but I believe we are more about value than price. We find it hard to find the value in an $18 US per adult day pass to go for a walk in the National Park with 100s of other tourists. Local “asada” restaurants were setting us back $10 US per dish for lunch. As well as activities like a rainforest canopy walk being $40 US and rafting topping out at $100 per person for a half day. It was challenging for the four of us to get through a 24-hour period without spending a couple hundred dollars and for whatever reason we would fall asleep feeling unsatisfied. We also noticed that our fellow travellers were more of the one or two week holiday types which made us feel more distant from the crowd and we felt that we were doing certain activities because we felt we should rather than actually wanted to. I am not saying don’t come down to Costa Rica, and I know for a fact that you can easily get by on a minimal budget and still enjoy the areas best treasures, that is not why I am here writing this. I am, just saying that Costa Rica was not the right choice at this moment for us as a family.
Maybe someday in the future, when the timing is right we will give it another try and fall in love with this place like so many others do. But as for right here, right now, this pot is being placed on the back burner to simmer for a while and waiting for our return.
Have a look a the location before here, Puerto Viejo. Also where we were off to next!
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Monkey's Tale
We didn’t fall in love with Costa Rica either. For many of the reasons you said. Too many tourists rather than travellers, too expensive for what you get, and for us, it rained a lot. It was a few years ago, so it’s probably even more expensive now. Maggie
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