Once we crossed over the border from the south and piled onto the hand-me-down American bluebird school bus, for $1 U.S. per adult, we both felt like we were now in a place where we belong. Costa Rica was not our style, but Nicaragua had an entirely new feel to it. After sweating it up for an hour on the torn vinyl seats, we hopped off curbside in Los Rivas. Here we caught a taxi ride for $2 per adult east to the ferry terminal at San Jorge on the shores of Ometepe Island. As we had some time to kill before the next boat we sat down at a local restaurant for a bit of lunch. A plate of chicken, rice, beans, a couple vegetables and a coke set us back 75 Nicaraguan Cordobas (NIC). At time of writing $1US = 36.6 NIC. Both US and local currency can be used anywhere but change will always be given in NIC. In fact the USD is so popular that ATM machines give you the option in either currency as well.

We casually made our way to the ferry ticket booth, paid our random $1 U.S. tourist tax then proceeded to get our 50 NIC per person boat fare. As it turns out, there are more rules here in Nicaragua than we thought. The boat was apparently full to capacity and we would have to wait an hour for the next one. We chose to stand at the gate in line not to miss it again. The one hour ride had a strange mix of old and new. We could see wild turbines lining the shore generating clean electricity as we puttered along in our rusted out, beat up three story ferry boat to the twin volcanic island. This lake is actually so large that the waves were tossing us around fairly decently. Being the largest lake in Central America you cannot actually see across it, and bull sharks have been spotted lurking in the waters as they made their way up river from the Caribbean ocean. It was originally in the runnings back in the day to be modified with a lock system to transport large container ships between the two oceans, but we all know by now where this engineering marvel currently lies.

Shortly after checking into our room in the islands largest city of Moyogalpa we knew for a fact that this was not going to work for our time on the island. The lack of air conditioning combined with lack of opening windows and mid 30 degree heat was a show stopper. To top it off there were issues with no running water as well.

We lasted one sleepless and sweaty night before relocating to Hostal Casa Moreno for their amazingly cooled rooms with pool and full restaurant menu including complimentary breakfast.

After plotting out some daily activities it was now time to execute. However today being Sunday, buses were inactive so some quick shuffling was in order. A short taxi ride in the smallest car I had ever seen for 150 NIC had us at el Puente de Jesus Maria. With no entrance fee made our way to the point. It was basically a peninsula of land that lie just under the water (depending on water levels). You could walk a hundred meters or so in ankle to mid calf deep water and it looked like you were walking on water with some waves crashing on either side of you. We had a packed lunch with us and sat down on some of the areas tables and took in the surroundings.

With the taxi driver’s number now in our Whats App list it was just a short stretch of time before we were on our way back to our hostel in the ferry port city. The friendly driver even made a stop for us in the middle of the no longer active airport runway that has the main road passing through the middle. I guess planes and cars take turns on who gets the right-of way in the busy season.

After a refreshing dip in the pool to cool our body temps we hit to the streets and settled in at an amazing pizza place for dinner.

Our third morning now for some reason or another had Bexley not feeling so well. One of the troubles of travelling as a family or even a larger group, as we have learned, is that when you have a soldier down you all must put things on hold until everyone is back on their feet and moving again. This however was not just a little stomach bug, with this we needed more than just time and rest. With a combination of equal parts charades, spanglish and google translate with a couple phone-a-friend life lines I was back from the pharmacist with the correct antibiotics in hand. One dose twice a day, and within three days all should be cleared up. Our little Bexley took on this challenge and was feeling good in two, however we continued the medicine for the full cycle just to be sure.

With all back in working condition, and Sunday being in the past, we waited on the street edge for a passing bus to board. With brakes a squealing it came to a rolling stop just long enough for us and the little old lady to hop aboard. Seats were limited so the girls sat on our knee as we continued to load others up in a standing room only fashion. No less then one hour later we had covered the 24 kilometres, changed buses and were now standing at a dirt road between the two volcanoes walking west towards the Ojo De Agua.

I have been to a few Ojo De Aguas in my time and all the “eye of the waters” seem to be different. This time around it is an amazing fresh water pool that is slightly heated by the islands towering volcanoes and walled in to create an amazing swimming hole. The $10 per adult entrance fee is nothing to shy away from as this also gives you a $5 food coupon. You could spend all day here and we certainly spent a good deal of time swimming in the magical waters, watching the fish and even having a go-on-the-rope swing.

After retracing our steps and bus route we came to rest back at our hostal with smiles on our faces and contentment in our eyes. Although we were slightly confused on how it costs us 160 NIC to get there and only 60 NIC to get back. We just chalk it up to one of life’s little mysteries and the unknown working and this unique countries charm.

With so many things to do in the island I would recommend renting a scooter or car if you are comfortable with it. Ometepe Island lives a bit in the past and everything moves at its own special island pace. Public transit, although inexpensive and an experience of its own, it’s dramatically slow. With your own wheels you could venture to the islands far beaches for a swim. Check out the cascada de San Ramon and even kayak the Rio Istian for more unique wildlife experiences. We tossed around the idea of attempting to climb one of the volcanic peaks however the vertical gain added on to the dramatically humid 33 degree weather was not all that appealing for us so called adults, not to mention the girls.

We chose to spend our last day on the island, as we have done in the past before travel days, in a relaxing fashion and lay by the pool. And as in the past as well, for what ever reason, the pool gods were not shining down on us again. We woke up to signs posted displaying that the pool will be closed for the day due to regular maintenance and cleaning. So what is the next best thing you might ask? Short city walks, pizza and school work for the girls.

Our final morning we casually made our way back to the under construction ferry terminal grounds and boarded our boat. With vessels leaving nearly every hour we were really on no fixed schedule. Once on the water the views off the back of the boat are second to none. The dramatic volcanic cones dominate the skyline as you make the entire voyage back to the mainland. With the short taxi ride complete we were now at the bus depot in Rivas with two heat of the day lunch time hours to kill before cramming into the chicken bus with Granada as our next destination.

Have a look at our previous location of the Costa Rica/Nicaragua border crossing. Or have a look at where we are off to next.