The Charismatic Charm of Léon, Nicaragua

Having a population of over 213,000 people, it puts Léon at the second most populated city in Nicaragua. Lying a mere 90 kilometres northwest of the nations capital of Managua, and within the lowlands, it also makes it one of the hottest places in the country having an annual average temperature of 28 degrees Celsius. Léon also happens to be located within the volcanic chain that winds its way up Central America and has more than enough activities to keep even the most mundane traveller entertained.

After our 90 minute express shuttle ride, for 78 Nicaraguan Cordobas from Managua, we were dropped off at one of the city’s main bus terminal in Léon. Just a short taxi ride through the cobblestone streets we checked ourself into the Tortuga Bolooga Hostal where we planned to spend the next handful of days. This quiet little gem had a communal kitchen, breakfast included and a small little pool to drop our body temperature a few degrees after we drifted through the streets in the 35° heat.

The streets and main centre square here seemed so much more upbeat and happening as the doors were open and full of shops, stalls, people and passer-byers. With the surrounding volcanoes at our doorstep and the Pacific Ocean a short ride away there was more than enough tourist shops and activities to fill your days with adventures. They have everything here from surf camps to multi-day hiking and camping trips through the lesser visited countryside. For us however, the ever famous volcano boarding was first on our radar.

As our traditional challenges continued, it took a bit of time to locate a company that had a descent schedule, price and most of all would allow the girls to partake. One of the many travellers motos, if you don’t like what you hear from one company, try next door. We eventually zoned in on “Volcano Day” for us and we even got a free t-shirt for everyone upon signing up. The following morning we met at the office and loaded up into the back of what looked like an old military truck. With music blaring we were off to Cerro Negro with 10 others, and two guides. After 20 minutes on paving stones and another 30 minutes in the dirt we were now staring face to face with one of the youngest volcanoes in the world. Its black basaltic cinder cone cannot be missed next to the green surrounding hillsides.

Cerro Negro is actually comprised of four cones and is one of the most active volcanoes in Nicaragua. Once we were all offloaded we were given a briefing and started making our way up the volcano with our company supplied gear packs on our back and board under our arm. The wind was blowing and the girls were excited. After 60 minutes including a couple rest/view breaks we reached the top and dropped our boards. The crew took a little side trip around the crater rim to peer down the throat of the volcano. We could feel the steam vents as we walked and see the rock discolouration from the sulphur staining the stones below us. Being an active volcano with the last eruption being in 1999 we couldn’t help but feel a touch uneasy about our vulnerability on the craters lip.

Returning back to the boards we opened our bags and donned our suits. With googles on our face, bandanas covering our nose and mouths and yellow is the new black cover-alls, we were ready to hit the slopes. The line of us shifted to the starting gate, and I am not going to sugar coat this when I say that this slope was steep, 45° steep. With Bexley sitting in front of me on the board, I sat down, secured my Keen sandals for brakes, and leaned back. I slowly started to gain speed. Within 100m I was moving at a speed that I figured would we safe enough for us to make it down to the bottom of the slope without traumatizing our five year old daughter for life. To my surprise, I could hear nothing but laughing and cheering from her so I opened it up a bit more leaving a comet like trail of dust behind us. Our ride slowly came to a hault securely and upright at the bottom of the hill. This I could not say happened for everyone. Claiming to be able to reach speeds of over 100 Km/h others here left tumbling and rolling in a cloud of debris leaving one member with an open head-wound. I think it would be fair so say that if I was riding solo that may have been me as well. Shannon and Lidija proceeded to make their way to the bottom unscaved as well, but goggle seals and volcano dust made for a little less enjoyable ride for them.

After a watermelon snack and mingling with the others we loaded back into the truck returning to Léon, and were treated with lunch and drinks in their restaurant.

One of the perks of signing on with Volcano Day Tours was they included a free beach shuttle trip to play in the waves and watch the sun set over the Pacific Ocean. Being a bit too much for the girls we chose to take this beach trip in the following day instead of following the tour. Shannon located a perfect little beach/bar style place where we enjoyed four hours of relaxing in the sun, body surfing the waves, drinks and food on the beach and sand between our toes. The girls searched for shells and danced in the waters edge as we closed our day on another amazing tropical journey.

As we usually do, we always have down days when travelling. This is the time we casually wander the streets, enjoy any restaurants that catch our eye and let the girl run free in the parks. Shannon and I get some time to discuss future adventures and be together while the girls splash in the pool.

From here we also signed up for the express shuttle from Nicaragua overland through Honduras and into El Salvador. I wandered through this area back in 2003 and at that time El Salvador was basically a no-go zone so I stuck to Honduras. However fast forward 20 years and it seems like the roles have now been reversed, at least in the south of Honduras anyways.

After five days in Léon we found ourselves waiting curb-side one starlit morning to board our shuttle with four others. With traffic low and air-conditioning high we head off on the long 12-hour journey through two border crossings and onto countries unknown to us. Can’t wait to see what this adventure life has next for us.

Just joining now? Check out our stop over at The Corn Islands before we arrived in Léon, or move on to that boarder crossing HERE.

2 thoughts on “The Charismatic Charm of Léon, Nicaragua

  1. Pingback: Palm Tree Paradise of The Corn Islands, Nicaragua

  2. Pingback: Border crossing from Nicaragua to El Salvador

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