Everest Basecamp Trek With Kids: Days 1-3

Trekking to Everest Basecamp (EBC) with 2 four year olds.

100 Nepalese Rupees (NRs) = $1 Canadian (Can) = $0.75 US

Day 1: Lukla (2840m) to Monjo (2780m)

🥾 13 km
⏳ Seven hours with a one hour lunch break

5:00 am alarms had us up and moving to the airport by 5:40 am. The tight 20 seater Sita Air prop plane cleared the Kathmandu (1324m) smog and awed us with breathtaking Himalayan snow-capped peaks out the left side windows within minutes. Some moments it felt like we were barely above the ground as we banked north then faded right as we touched down into Lukla (2840m) by 8:00 am. After receiving our packs, we tightened our boot strings and circled over the runway before making our way through the cobblestone streets. At the far end of Lukla we descended a flight of stairs and reached the first check point. Here we purchased a 2000 NRs per adult permit, girls were free, and continued on our way by 8:30.

The kilometres seemed to go by fast, 2 kms to Chheplung (2664m), 3 kms to Ghat (2548m) and another 3 kms to Phakding (2600m) by 11:30. Our original plan was to spend the night here however we were all so excited that we just made it a lunch stop. We relaxed in the 22°C sun for an hour and watched the load carrying mules pass by as we enjoyed our pasta and veggie fried rice (400NRs/650NRs). The conversation was never ending as we all took in the vibrant prayer flags, suspension bridges and stone path that surrounded us with every step.

We then pushed on in hopes to get to Bengkar (2720m) another 3 kms further which would make for an 11 km day of stunning scenery and authentic hillside villages. Once we arrived however the girls seemed to be in good hiking spirits so we chose to continue on. A further 2 kms would have us in Monjo (2780m) but 500 metres shy things took a turn. The girls decided they were done hiking. Somehow with all the creative thinking of games of I Spy, singing, counting, and the spinning of more prayer wheels we arrived at Monjo. That final 100 metres was our slowest as it took about 15 minutes and a bribe for a chocolate bar, but the girls did it.

We checked into Summit Tea House (500 NRs), unpacked and relaxed. This $5 Canadian included a two double bed room with attached bathroom and hot showers, along with 220V power and Wifi. Nearly all tea houses all the way to EBC are priced at 500 NRs per night. Do expect a dramatically inflated accommodation price if you choose not to eat dinner and breakfast at their location as well. Dinner cost 1350 Rupees ($13.50 cad) for all of us to eat. Our dinner of hot lemon tea (150NRs), french fries (695 NRs) and fried noodles with egg (595 NRs) was enjoyed next to a burning fire by three of us as we couldn’t keep Lidija awake long enough to eat. With full bellies and ongoing hydration we barely made it into the evening before we all settled into our room for an early night sleep on an amazing first day on the trail.

Day 2: Monjo (2780m) to Namche Bazaar (3440m)

🥾 6.5 km
⏳ 4.5 hrs
⛰️ Elevation gain 600 metres

We woke up to an alarm for 7:30 am with 8°C temperatures lurking in the room. We casually packed up and were on our way by 9:30 after an American breakfast (795 NRs), pancake with honey (580 NRs) and two cups of boiling water (70 NRs each) which we added some cocoa powder for the girls. Three minutes in, at the north end of town made for our first stop as we purchased our 3000 NRs each Sagarmatha National Park pass with our kids having no charge. Our later start allowed for the sun being higher in the sky and things were heating up quickly.

We made good time as we descended the steep rocky stairs to the suspension bridge below crossing over the Dudh Kosi river and completing the 1 km to Jorsale (2740m) before 10:00. Once past Jorsale however things took a turn. The winds picked up and Bexley got dust in her eyes. As I was getting her out of the wind her boot got something in it. Here we sat for a good 15 minutes without the boot on trying to ration with a 4-year-old. Yesterdays 13 km day was already starting to take its toll and we had another few uphill hours to hike. After a hundred hugs and kisses, boots were back on and now in motion. We came up with a new game today. The girls became our guides and were showing us the way, warning us of oncoming mule trains and every bit of loose rock or exposed root on the trail. This not only kept them ahead of us and moving at a good pace but also kept their minds busy.

The following two and half hours were completely uphill. This is where all the elevation gain is. After a couple short switch backs you arrive at the famous 140 meter long Hillary suspension bridge (2935 m) grasping the cliff edges 125 meters above the surface of the earth. This is known as the gateway to Everest and you can’t help but feel excitement as you make your way through the tangle of prayer flags while you sway through the air. Once on the other side switchbacks and dirt track is all that is between you and Namche Bazaar. No amount of singing could drown out the tradition question of every child, “How much further”. Slow step after slow step we passed the Halfway Hut (3140 m) by 12:25 eager to sell overpriced food and the odd souvenir to any exhausted onlooker. Stepping aside for more mules, porters and eager trekkers, we eventually reached a second check point where we had to show our permit and park pass. We climbed a bit further, rounded the corner and 20 minutes later Namche Bazaar (3440 m) was in view. The girls perked right up and started running ahead and climbing the last few steps.

We passed though an archway and were dazzled with Namches initial appearance. Water wheels turnings in the river, a giant stupa, locals washing clothes in the never ending stream of water that flows through the city. Namche is built in an amphitheatre style basin with towering glaciated peaks in all directions. There is no other place in the world like it. It’s like walking into a peacefull utopia lost in the mountains. The noises, sights and smells just take your breath away. Today we found was one the more challenging days as there were limited options for food and water breaks and the 600 metre elevation climb to the unacclimatized body was a grind for the day.

If you thought hiking with kids was challenging, try having to pick a place to stay here. So many options and the top tier must be over 100 vertical meters above the lower level. Most of the tea houses are fairly similar to each other however the views and location will make your decision. Namche is one of the villages where prices will fluctuate so don’t be afraid to shop around. We found the Alpine Tea House (2000 NRS) with amazing food, great view, a private bathroom with hot shower and electrical plug-ins to spend the next two nights while we acclimatize. A late lunch of traditional bottomless dal bhat with vegetable curry (750 NRs), macaroni with tomato sauce with cheese (790 NRS) and a couple cups of hot water.

The remainder of the day was spent relaxing in the heated lounge and resting our hiking legs. Dinner came upon us and hunger was still present. Chicken pizza (950 NRs), and vegi momos (500 NRs), with hot drinks filled our bellies and warmed our bones as the evening air started to cool off dramatically. We ventured up stairs by 8:45 with the girls passing out instantly while the two of us had some quiet time to chat together about the days to come.

Day 3: REST DAY at Namche Bazaar

Hovering around 3500m this is the first recommended acclimatization day and Namche is the perfect place for it. As your body slowly adjusts to the altitude by growing new red blood cells you can wander the street shops and relax in a sunroom at a local bakery. We all slept in until just after 8:00 where we crept down stairs to the dining hall for an American breakfast (950 NRs) and cinnamon pancake (590 NRs). The -8°C outside air had frosted up all the windows and the morning sun had now started to melt the ice layer leaving streaks of water dripping of every external surface. The girls woke up feeling refreshed, while I had a minor headache. Tyson had a headache and upset stomach but all of our symptoms quickly disappeared with an Advil and hydration. Meandering back up the wooden staircase we enjoyed a round of hot showers and had some hand washing of socks and underwear that later hung on the line in the sun.

It was now time for a little tour of the area. The maze of stone stairs seemed never ending as you peer in and out of every shop. We soon came to the conclusion that if you missed out on purchasing something in Kathmandu you could for sure find it here for a slightly higher price. We zig-zagged our way down to the entrance gate and relaxed in the sun as the girls ran their way in a clockwise direction around the stupa, spinning every prayer wheel they could reach. Bexley had to stop at every cow we saw to give it a pet and Lidija window shopped like the best of them. We stopped and splurged at the Sherpa Barista for a crispy chicken sandwich and bacon croissant sandwich for lunch. This unique cafe has the walls lined with photos of nearly every famous mountaineer that has passed through the Khumbu Valley. You could spend hours admiring everything and they even had a pulse/oximeter hanging on the wall to test your acclimatization process.

Once back at our lodge the girls coloured while we planed the next couple days with a bit of guidance from one of the tea house owners. Both girls were asking when we were going hiking next. Kids are resilient and us parents should never underestimate what they are capable of.

Once dinner was complete the four of us scampered back upstairs to our room and slipped into our sleeping bags. Lidija was down first by 8:00 and the remaining three barely made it past 9:00.