Everest Basecamp Trek With Kids: Days 4-8

Day 4: Namche Bazaar (3440m) to Phungi Thanga (3250m)

🥾 8 km
⏳ 4 hours
⛰️ Elevation gain 140 m, loss 360 m

We left the lodge just before 9 am with the sun shining and the girls excited to head out. Namche is one of the more expensive locations along the trail but our total cost for our lodge upon check-out including two nights accommodation, two dinners, one lunch, two breakfasts and any random snacks and drinks was still 13,100 NRs ($131 Cad) for the four of us. As you can imagine with a place this size there are multiple trails taking you to multiple places, so we confirmed with our lodge staff that we were heading in the correct direction. The trail climbed up past the Monastery then circled in a clockwise manner to the north east corner of the hillside to get out of the Namche basin. The trail shortly levelled off with some mild ups and downs. As you hug your way high up the west side of the valley this is by far in my opinion the most amazing section of the entire hike. The path weaves in and out of the mountain contours and at every horizontal outcrop lies a Bhuddist Stupa. Beyond that are the most amazing views of the most amazing mountains in the world. You have green foliage in the foreground, cultural monuments in the mid ground and towering Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Everest with is blowing snow plume in the background. Not to mention, the winds carrying the tranquil sounds of Yak bells far off in the distance and the outstanding smell of fresh crisp air wafting with every step.

We reached the Ama Dablam Lodge (3550m) by 11:20, a further 10 minutes along the trail is a four way junction (3600m) that takes you back to Namche bazaar, over to Khumjung, up the Gokyo Lakes valley or the direction we are heading, down to the Dudh Koshi River.

We made the steep and rather rough descent to Leushyasa (3440m) then continued down to the rocky rivers edge village of Phungi Tenga (3250m) completing the 8 kms by 12:45. We followed a train of yaks right to our guesthouse at the opening of the suspension bridge. The Zambala Lodge had quaintly small, detached rooms with two beds and outside common bathrooms for 500NRs per night. The glass windows of the lodge allowed for perfect entertainment as you could admire the rocky landscape and commuters crossing the bridge in front of you.

Once we got all settled and lunch in our bellies, the girls had the whole dinning room to run around, because of course they are still full of energy after hiking 8 kms. Back in Namche we made the decision to only hike half days compared to the normal trekking schedule. Phungi Tenga is usually a lunch stop for most up hill hikers so it was nice to have this option for us to slow down and enjoy our holiday and take in these amazing little villages. Once the sun goes behind the towering mountains the air temperature dramatically starts to drop. A quick dinner of fried rice with egg, veggies and cheese (700NRs) with popcorn (500NRs) and hot water for drinks was quickly consumed before we huddled around the yak dung burning fireplace to enjoy the evening. A short while later we shifted to our room by 8:00 and drifted off to sleep after another amazing day in the mountains.

Day 5: Phungi Thanga (3250m) to Tengboche (3890m)

🥾 3 km
⏳3 hours
⛰️ Elevation gain 600 metres

Our morning started out breath taking with the sun shining and the girls excited to hike. After a breakfast of apple porridge along with two orders of toast with two fried eggs we promptly packed our bags and payed our 24 hour bill of 5650NRs. By 9:00 we were taking our first steps onto the suspension bridge we had watched for so long now. Five minutes later as we passed a bunch of derailed water driven prayer wheels and arrived at another checkpoint for permits and park passes. From here the trail starts to make its never ending climb. This would be a close second for one of the hardest days on the trek. Dirt switchbacks take you all the way to the Monastery on top of the mountain. There are no tea houses to sleep at nor is there any place to refill your water or appetite once you start on the climb. The following 600 metre elevation gain was only three kilometres and took us three hours to climb, however it felt much longer. There was a number of other trekkers hiking down this incline that were giving the girls much more attention than they wanted and pictures were plentiful. We understood and predicted that having a set of 4-year-old twins hiking themselves this high into the Himalayas would draw some attention but we were hoping for more smiles and less invasion from the onlookers. The higher we got on the trail the more our girls started to become a tourist attraction. This almost broke them. People had cameras in their faces and kept touching them. Even with the girls hiding behind us, people still wouldn’t back off. The girls started crying and no one seemed to care how they felt. So every time someone approached us we would have to stop and pick the girls up while they buried their faces. It wasn’t until the people passed then that we could put them down and start hiking again. They were not all bad however, many just wanted to say hi and some even had treats they shared with them.

By 11:50 we walked through the doors of The Trekkers Lodge in Tengboche (3890m). Perched on top of the shoulder of a mountain ridge are only a couple larger lodges. The main attraction for both locals and tourists alike is the largest Buddhist Monastery in the region. This was made present as we changed into some warmer clothes and descended down stairs to the lounge for lunch. There was an elderly Monk enjoying the comforts. Dressed in his traditional burgundy gown with a fake North Face down jacket for warmth, the girls didn’t know what to think. In these situations the girls do as they usually do with the unknown, hide. We topped up on macaroni with cheese, dal baht with rice and snacked on popcorn as we watch the clouds engulf the lodge. The altitude now was starting to make the little things more challenging. A flight of stairs can leave you winded, a brisk walk is difficult to maintain and sleeping habits can wake you up in the middle of the night panting for air. We drink as much liquids as possible and eat all the calories we can. This helps your body function normal and allows it to adjust to the new oxygen levels.

By 3:00 the stove was burning in the lodge so the girls settled in while I took a stroll to check out the Monastery. Originally constructed in 1916 it is the religious centre of the Khumbu Valley. It has however evolved and grown over the years especially due to the destruction of an earthquake in 1935 along with a fire in 1989. You are free to quietly wander through the area as long as you respect the culture. I managed to take a seat on the floor during a prayer session and listen to the chants of numerous monks and monks in training. The monk from our lodge was sitting crossed legged contributing to the ambiance. After returning to the lodge rain was falling and the same monk took his place next to the fire. This was short lived as he slipped away to the next room as they had WWE on the television.

Dinner of potato momos, macaroni with tomato and cheese, french fries and a couple cups of boiled water settled us into the evening. The clouds were sinking a bit and we could see the tops of some of the nearby mountains including the predominant Ama Dablam in the background. By 8pm we topped up our water, dropped in a chlorine pill and made our way to our room for the night. The girls could barely brush their teeth before falling asleep tucked away in our down sleeping bags. For an hour, starting at 9:00, we we were entertained with the rumbling of thunder in the not to distant surroundings. I guess a storm had moved in.

By now Shannon and I are really watching the girls for signs of altitude sickness. By choosing the half schedule this would allow for plenty of time to get use to the thin air. We talked to the girls, asked them questions about how they felt, monitored their breathing and knew exactly how much and often they need the bathroom. This hike is basically on them and we were expecting to turn around at any time if we felt they may be in danger. But some how after all this altitude gain we are the ones laying around the lodge at the end of the day while the girls were bouncing around, giggling and playing.

Day 6: Tengboche (3890) to Shomare (4040m)
🥾 6.5 km
⏳ 3.5 hrs
⛰️ Elevation gain 150 metres
🌡️ 2°C in our room when we woke up, outside below freezing

The girls were so excited when they woke up to snow. Unfortunately it was a 6:30 awakening due to a helicopter landing next to our lodge to load a patient wearing an oxygen mask that struggled through the night with altitude sickness. Other than that the morning was traditional, food, pack and pay our 24 hour bill of 7350 NRs. We started our walk for the day with the sun beaming down through the blue sky and 1/2″ of snow on everything. The girls spent 30 minutes playing in the snow before we were able to start hiking by 9:30. You would almost think they girls had never seen the white stuff before. Both Ama Dablam and the Monastery looked unbelievable!

The next section of the trail descends down the east side of the valley. After 30 minutes we passed Debuche (3820m), then Milingo (3770m) after an hour. We crossed another suspension bridge over the Imja Khola river and onto the west side of the valley where we started to climb. That trail section was wide, snow covered and buried under the canopy of rhododendron trees. Unfortunately the flowers were not in bloom for us yet. On the west side now the trail changed to a path of dirt and rocks that narrowed slightly but still was easily navigated.

The first four and a half kilometres went by quick as we stopped in at Highland Sherpa Lodge in Pangboche (3985m) for tea and a visit. We hiked along side the owners for awhile while we were descending down to Phungi Tenga and their hospitality was most pleasant. They informed to us how Pangbuche is the highest permanently inhabited village in the area and the hub for climbing Ama Dablam. They explained the logistics of operating such a facility in such a location. An hour had passed and our tea was finished so we chose to continue up the trail two kilometres further to Shomare (4040m). This stop was great but it was hard to get the girls motivated to finish up the final section of the day. This last stretch took us one and a half hours, and we could see Shamore off in the distance the entire time. We slowly inched our way closer and closer until the final 50 metres where we had to pick up the pace as the yaks were coming up quickly behind us. We sat on the ledge watching them go by and then found our tea house for the night at Pasang Lodge (500 NRs).

The afternoon was much the same as other days with lunch selection, relaxation, hydration, keeping warm then dinner. The lodge owner was more than pleased to see the girls hiking up the mountain side and even had some toys for them to play with. We also brought along a small note pad and pen the girl each picked out for themselves back in Kathmandu. They would look at the map and write down the names of the villages we passed in their “journal” every day.

Taking in the evening views just before bed

As usual, by 8:00, we had returned to the room for the night to hunker down before the fire burned out and the lodge got cold again.

Day 7: Shomare (4040m) to Dingboche (4350m)
🥾 4 km
⏳ 1 hr 45 mins
⛰️ Elevation gain 400 metres

Waking at 6:00 made for a cold morning as the sun was tucking in behind Ama Dablam. When the sun started to shine and its warm rays elevated the lounge temperature we slithered downstairs for breakfast. A 900NRs american breakfast and 500NRs french toast should tide us over until lunch. We payed our 24 hour bill with the teahouse of 5500NRs and donned our packs, said our thanks and goodbyes to the tea house staff and they treated us with a pomegranate for the road.

By 9:15 we were climbing through the stone wall path that gained elevation rather steeply. We were moving fairly slow as both the girls wanted to carry our new gift and emotions ran higher than we ever imagined. We came to the conclusion that we would take turns carrying the pomegranate and eventually made our way out of the village limits.

The path was wide open and clear with multiple tracks made by yaks through the fields. They all headed in the same general direction so we were free to meander where ever we chose. The sky was as blue as ever and the mountains were beaming white. The girls soon realized that the pomegranate was making their hands cold so I became the new carrier and placed it in the hood of my fleece sweater. We reached a junction by 10:10 where the left path would take us to Periche. We chose the right path towards Dingboche. We did a short descent and crossed over the icy waters of the Imja River. As we climbed the opposite side Lidija wanted a hand getting over some of the large steps. This was the start of the great pomegranate catastrophe of the EBC trek. As I bent down to help her the pomegranate flopped out of my hood, crashed to the ground and rolled down the trail a bit before hitting a water bar that sent the fruit off the edge of a small cliff leaving it in pieces lost in the rocks and small shrubs bellow. Lidija was devastated. She was convinced it was all her fault and the following 10 minutes was spent consoling her and explaining that it was an accident and nobody was to blame. Eventually the tears settled and we continued on our way. Following the open trail, we passed a couple flag poles before rounding the corner to reveal the townsite of Dingboche (4350m) by 11:45. The girls just starting running as if they had been waiting for this moment all day. Shannon and I could not keep up as the thin air somehow was thinner where we were standing.

We settled into Hotel Countryside by noon with a room cost of 1000NRs. This included electrical plug-ins and attached toilet and sink. We would be spending an extra acclimatization day here so chose to have a few more luxuries. We offloaded our packs, opened up our gear and changed into our warmer clothes. The air temperature was now chilling and we didn’t want to have to try to warm ourselves up if we didn’t have to. The lunch room was next for some vegetable noodle soup (600NRs), macaroni with tomato and cheese (750NRs) and a nice popcorn snack (550NRs). We relaxed in the lounge for the remainder of the day and enjoyed the mountain scenery and all the new tea house construction taking place in the area.

Dinner came upon us and the Sherpa tradition of Dal Baht (800NRs) with a side of cheese momos (800NRS) and a one litre pot of hot lemon (500NRs) to drink. By now we are trying to consume at least two litres of water per day over and above our hot drinks. We carry our water bottles with us where ever we go and push the girls to drink as much as they can handle. This activity gets shut down around 5:00 as anything after that cut off time results in multiple pee breaks throughout the cold dark night.

Once we passed Pangbouche the day before we noticed that the tea houses were really starting to thin out. There appeared to be these tiny villages only in convenient location for hikers. This meant every four or five kilometres. Most guided hikes will have you stopping at one tea house for lunch then pushing on to complete your eight to ten kilometre day at the continuing hut. This now gave us limited variations, however staying the night where most stop only for lunch makes for a quiet and more personal experience with the local culture and tea house owners.

Day 8: REST DAY – Dingboche

Today we just relaxed. We woke in the crisp air morning with a light skiff of snow on the ground. The overcast skies stopped the suns rays from warming us up so we were in no hurry to move around. Breakfast was over in the lodge by 8:00 and both Shannon and myself splurged the 650NRs each for a hot water, but cold air shower. Shannon had an N-cell sim card in her phone that worked every so often however Dingboche has a satellite link so we purchased access with a 24-hour wifi period for and additional 600NRs. The remainder of the morning was spent lounging around while the girls worked on their spelling and numbers and I double-checked our trekking plan and schedule. It was nice to relax and have the ability to Facetime with friends and family back home.

After lunch we ventured out for a little walk to explore the village but the clouds rolled in making it a short stint. We returned back to our lodge and stopped into the attached bakery for chocolate brownie cake (500NRs). We met with other trekkers and exchanged stories over hot drinks in the sunroom. Eventually the air drew colder and people went their separate ways so we returned to the lounge and settled in for dinner and drinks. All these tea house lodges are fairly similar with padded benches around the exterior and a stove burning yak dung in the centre. They all seem to have their own unique features as well. Some have pictures of famous climbers, others have book exchanges and most have traditional Sherpa decorations that stimulate the eye.

The weather was starting to change more frequently now with colder and cloudier days. We were hoping for a few more good days to get us to our destination but you just never know when you are this far in the mountains what the weather will bring.

Tomorrow we will continue our way.