Everest Basecamp Trek With Kids: Day 13-17

Day 13: Gorak Shep (5130m) to Pheriche (4260m)

🥾 13 Kilometres
⏳ 6.5 Hours with 1.5 hour lunch/snack break
⛰️ Elevation loss: 870 m

Today we were woken by the unmistakable clap of helicopters, huh. Yesterday we took a chance and chose to make the trek to the EBC rock with overcast skies and thoughts of the following day being worse. But now the sky was a brilliant shade of blue behind the soaring giants of snow and rock. We took in the mountain views through the dining room windows and savoured breakfast of cinnamon pancakes and eggs on toast. With our bags loaded up and our two day bill of 18,500NRs paid, we were a little hesitant to head out the door and start our way back down the mountain. Not because it was symbolizing that our journey was coming to an end, or that the scenic views were just to beautiful to leave. Although both of these situations were true, our main reason was that the current temperature was just slightly above the overnight low of -17°C.

By 10:00 we said our good-byes and closed the door behind us as we started day one of retracing our steps down the mountain. Back into the bolder fields of snow and ice, Shannon and I carried the girls for both warmth and speed. We were now onto our fifth consecutive day of hiking above 4000m and the girls were starting to feel it. With our little beauties resting in the Trail Magik’s we quickly weaved our way over the erratic terrain and up to the Lobuche pass. These mountains are unbelievable. Navigating through the icy stones with the exaggerated steps caused some issues as Shannon slipped a foot and came tumbling down. No one was hurt but it surely secured the deal that the girls did not want to hike through this section. We shortly dropped down off the glacier and onto the flats, the girls wanted out to stretch their legs, and we were happy to have our load lightened in doing so.

By 12:30 we returned to the New EBC Guest House for a vegetable fried noodle lunch and visit with the owners and a couple familiar faces from three days back. We passed on our trekking guidebook to another adventurer, picked up two Bounty chocolate bars for 500NRs and continued the descent. By now the snow had all turned to slush and mud so this meant the girls were on our fronts once more as their hiking boots didn’t come up high enough to not get wet feet.

We passed the fallen climbers monuments and made yet another stop back at the Kala Pathar tea house in Dughla for another a quick hello with hopes of pushing on further to lose some more altitude on the day. The amazing owner would not let us leave and the girls were overly excited to reunite with her again. She sat them down and cut them each a slice of freshly baked chocolate cake with chocolate icing and a cup of hot chocolate, as well as hot mango tea for Shannon and I.

We eventually did say our good-byes and descended down the gulley and across the rickety old bridge at the bottom. The sun was starting to set behind the mountain and we needed to speed up to get to the next place, therefore we popped the girls back into the Trail Magik carriers and pushed on. We opted for a right hand fork in the trail this time and avoided the left trail that would return us to Dingboche. With a bit more descent we reached the valley bottom and had a fast pace now under shadowed overcast skies and reached the small village of Pheriche by 4:30.

The air already felt so much thicker and more revitalizing. We now had some yellows and greens back in our colour spectrum. Tucked in behind the mountain the air was still cold and the day was getting late. We checked into the Himalayan Lodge (1000NRs) and instantly felt overwhelmed. This place seemed to be set out for royalty. The luxuries they provided were things we had not seen in numerous days now.

We dropped our bags of unwashed clothes and smelly sleeping bags before heading to the dining hall. The place was nearly empty with only a couple other trekkers on their way up. This did not discourage the unbelievable staff with their kind hearts. The girls were greeted with a warm smile and a small pack of Oreos as we sat down at a table. A round of steaming face clothes were soon present and it felt euphoric. The fireplace was already lit and the lodge was warm. Macaroni and pizza completed our dinner as we curled up by the fire for the remainder of the evening.

We had a great talk with the owner and he explained some interesting facts of the Sagarmatha National Park.

Snow leopards are present here and they have killed many yaks in the pastures
Yak dung and fallen sticks can only be harvested off the ground a couple days of the year
One bag of dried yak dung from a vendor costs 5000NRs
One bag of dried yak dung is burned every evening to heat the lodge.

We also learned that the chopper that woke us up surprisingly early in the morning was actually called to remove the body of a hiker that did not take the requested acclimatization stops and suffered the affects of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) during the night.

Day 14: Pheriche (4260m) to Phungi Thanga (3320m)

🥾 12.5 Kilometres (girls hiked 8.5 Kilometres)
⏳ 6 Hours
⛰️ Elevation gain: 160 m, loss: 1100 m

The sleep was amazing, the best we had had in over a week. Never in the past have I considered being overly acclimatized to the elevation and not having a frozen face in the morning a blessing, but it sure was this morning. We filled our bodies with warm food, cleared up the tab of 8500NRs, and were on the trail by 9:00. We started out the day following the river with -1°C wind at our backs and the sun shining in our faces. We crossed to the other side of the Tsola River and started uphill. Bexley wanted to hike and Lidija needed to be carried.

By the time we reached the top both girls were in the Trail Magik and we picked up some speed. Reaching the Pheriche/Dingboche/Shomare junction by 9:45 and we were covering some good ground. We also learned from the tea house owner the night prior that the last flight from Lukla direct to Kathmandu was on our scheduled departure date. We could change our return flight time with no issues, however a later date would land us in a different airport resulting in a four hour bus ride back to Kathmandu. The goal was now set. Most trekking parties take three days to return from Gorak Shep to Lukla and we had four days to make our flight. We moved quickly on the downhill, and the girls now back on their feet had no issues keeping up.

Shomare (4040m) by 10:10 and Pangboche (3940m) by 11:00 on dry and dusty paths. Time for some lunch back at the Highland Sherpa Resort for a visit with new local acquaintances. Potato cheese momos, tomato mushroom pizza, tea and hot chocolate teased our palate. Once some of our stories were shared and a tour around the mini museum within, the owner started to share some of his past adventures. He had lived it the area most his life and had many stories to tell about some of the high mountain peaks he had climbed. He had worked as a guide and photographer for some of the world’s top mountaineers and movie producers. You could probably spend a lifetime listening to their stories if you could pry them all out of their tremendously modest mouths.

The time came to push on. Down we went, across the river once more and into Deboche (3730m) by 1:15. From here we were now on the other side of the valley and it is obvious they don’t get nearly as much daily sunshine. Also being hidden below the still un-bloomed rhododendron trees, snow, slush and mud had now taken over. Every foot step was dramatically slow as we want nothing to do with falling down in the slippery mud. With so many yaks and mules on the trail you never know what you might land in. As the girls boots only stand a couple inches tall we loaded the girls in the carriers once more and carefully climbed our way up to the Tengboche Monastery (3890m) by 1:45.

By now we were starting to pass rather large groups of tourists going the opposite way; up the mountain. The flood gates had now opened on the tourist season, and we had beat the rush by less than a week. As we started our way down the 600 m vertical descent dozens of onlookers slugging their way up the climb and were excited to see the girls hopping and skipping their way down. Back to dry and dust as we reached the Phungi Tenga (3250m) checkpoint by 2:45. The air was so thick now that it felt like our body was getting stronger with every step.

We gazed at the evergreen trees and glacial blue rivers as we crossed the prayer flag strewn suspension bridge and checked back into the Zambala Lodge just before 3:00. Our original plan was to push on a bit further and spend the night at the Ama Dublam Guest House but we did not think we could easily make it up the hill with the girls, just a bit to much for them we thought. We relaxed in the sun room with our feet up as our girls used their imaginations to occupy the afternoon away. By 5:00 the fire was burning and we relocated to the dining hall for some hot drinks and dal baht curry. The feeling of accomplishment was really starting to set in and the surrealness had taken over. By 8:00 we receded into our room just as the peaks were getting overtaken by darkness. I’m really going to miss these mountain views.

Day 15: Phungi Thanga (3320m) to Phakding (2600m)

🥾 19 Kilometres (girls hiked 18 Kilometres)
⏳ 8 Hours with 1 hour lunch/30 minute check point stop
⛰️ Elevation gain: 320 m, loss: 1000 m

After the hard to break traditional morning regime we packed everything up and payed our bill, 5850NRs. Now sleeping at 3320m the air felt so thick you could almost cut it with a knife. The air temperatures were hovering around zero and climbing quickly as the seconds ticked by. It was warm enough with the sun shining for us to have breakfast outside and watch the yak traffic pass by on the bridge out front.

By 9:20 our boots hit the dirt and we were glad that we made the decision to stop here for the night. The next three kilometres were a bit of a grind as we scampered over dirt and debris as yaks and mules made their way down the dirt track. The girls were on top of their game and powered through with no questions asked. I feel like this would have been quite the battle if we had attempted it yesterday afternoon. By 10:30 we had reached the top of the hill at 3600m and had a short rest break at the Ama Dablam guesthouse. The views here were unstoppable and it would have been amazing to wake up to this in the morning, but we continued on through the day as the clouds drifted in and out hiding the peaks temporarily within them. By high noon we covered another five kilometres and were now peering over the edge into the Namche Bazar (3440m) basin and ready for lunch.

It almost seemed overwhelming to reach such a large civilization after so many days. The colours were brilliant, the commotion of people was everywhere, fresh bread was in the air and music was playing with every turn of the corner. We found a perfect little roof top restaurant to grab a delicious chicken burger and fries lunch along with fancy drinks of peach iced tea and coke. After an hour relaxing in the sun and staring at all the snow covered mountain peaks we donned the packs and continued downwards. I slipped into a German bakery for a slice of chocolate cake with heavenly chocolate icing but I was forced to eat it quickly for if the girls saw me with it it would have been gone before I could enjoy the first bite. No sharing when it comes to cake!

With everyone refuelled and recharged now we continued the descent at 1:30. The three girls went ahead as I waited in line to have our permits checked, at the checkpoint leaving Namche, then did my best to catch up. It was all downhill from here. This section of trail was wide, dusty and full of mules and trekkers. So many others wanted to take a break from their climb to chat about the hike and how far the girls climbed. They seemed almost bewildered when we told them that they hiked all on their own to basically EBC and were in near disbelief when we told them that they were only four years old. We raced past the halfway followed by the Hillary suspension bridge. We were back down to the bottom of the valley at Jorsale (2740m) by 3:25. After crossing the river we took on the short climb up to Monjo (2780m) and checked out of the Sagramatha National Park by 3:45. It was really starting to feel like the hike was coming to an end now. Clouds were closing in and a slight sprinkle was underway but nothing too threatening so we thought as long as the girls were good we would cover as much ground as possible. We had already completed 13 kilometres and knew that the more we squeezed in today the easier it would be tomorrow. We had now been hiking for seven consecutive days and this had to be taking a toll on them. We told the girls that we were going to spend the night at Tok Tok, where the next check point was, but upon arriving a local guide we had been hiking next to mentioned that we should just continue one kilometre further as the amenities were better and the morning sun was more welcoming.

The girls were mentally prepared to stop here so it nearly broke them when told them of our decision. So they went into the carriers for all of 500 meters before we rounded a corner and Phakding (2600m) was in sight. The littles needed out and started running down the trail. Shannon and I with our bags could barely keep up. With now clear skies at 5:45 in the afternoon we checked into Sunrise Teahouse (500NRs) our 19 Kilometre day was complete. After a week of hiking every day the girls were just three kilometres short of completing a back country half marathon high in the mountains. The numbers nearly blew my mind, they just didn’t seem to add up. We barely dropped our bags into our corner unit room before making a b-line to the dining hall to get some dinner in our hungry tummies. Dal baht and macaroni all around. The girls as usual were bouncing around the dining hall like they had all this stored up energy. I ended up chatting with a fellow trekker who appeared to be in his 70’s, and from Norway. He was sharing stories of how he summited Mount Everest back in 1971 and was the 170th person to do so. He had some unbelievable stories of the trails, villages and the logistics of the trek back then. 1200 porters and the trek to basecamp took 30 days as the trailhead started just 40 kilometres from Kathmandu. He was doing his hike with his adult kids and believe it or not, he had kept in contact with his guide and one of the porters after all these years and they were all doing it together now. Unbelievable and inspiring! The sun had now shifted behind the mountains and the mild chills were creeping in. The four of us slinked back to our room and settled in for the night.

Day 16: Phakding (2600m) to Lukla (2840m)

🥾 8 Kilometres
⏳ 4 Hours
⛰️ Elevation gain: 290m, loss: 50m

With all of the Kilometres we jammed in yesterday and over the last few today was supposed to be an easy day, albeit mostly with a gradual incline. Sleeping way down the valley at 2600m felt like heaven. Waking in the morning to frost free windows and to not worry about having the sleeping bag zipped up tight was such a welcoming transition from the last couple of weeks. Down to the dining hall the traditional morning routine continued, however with a slightly slower pace. More luxuries like an extra cup of tea and hot chocolate to celebrate what would be be our last day on the trail. Slowing things down and enjoying every moment as they happen is something that gets sacrificed when your body and mind are fighting the cold and starving for oxygen.

With our backpacks packed and the 3400NRs tab cleared up we started our way onto the suspension bridge by 9:40 and over the Dudh Kosi river one last time.

We covered the three kilometres to Ghat (2546m) by 10:45 then ascended to Chheplung (2548 m) a further three kilometres by 11:50. The girls started off great but promptly lost steam once the uphill came upon us. We were forced to resort back to some of our old tricks again. Lots of games, stories and rounds of eye spy were needed to keep them moving. We were fully willing to load the girls up and carry them but emotionally they didn’t want that much to do with moving anymore. We set 100 metre milestones at the next prayer wheel or bridge crossing and inched our way along the trail. We could see and hear the planes props chopping at the mountain air so it was easy to calculate our progress. Stops were frequent but this was welcomed. We new we could make it to Lukla so we were in no dire rush to beat the clock. We eventually registered out of the Lukla (2840m) checkpoint by 1:35 and a further ten minutes of walking down the cobblestoned street we read a sandwich board with the name “Hiker’s Inn” upon it. They boasted complimentary wifi, hot showers with fresh towels and beds with comforters for 1300 NRs. We were sold in an instant. We covered the final two kilometres of our eight kilometre day in two hours.

We instantly dropped our bags down and climbed the stairs of this four story stone lodge to the glass surrounded dining hall with views in every direction. Sitting down we enjoyed a feast of a lunch consisting of spaghetti bolognaise, chicken burger and fries, Coke and tea. It was amazing. With full bellies we headed back down stairs for a much needed clean up. Our last shower was back in Dingboche on our second acclimatization break. We had gone eight days of wearing a toque every day and hiking 72 kilometres with not much more than a handful of baby wipes between the four of us. Needless to say the steaming shower that required two rounds of shampoo could be compared to nothing. This followed up by fresh cotton towels was the icing on the cake.

Once we all jumped back into our dirty hiking clothes we headed down to street level for a tour. There were shops and stalls in every direction. Vibrant prayer flags flapped over head along with an Irish Pub and pool hall. We slipped into the Everest Coffee House for a victorious slice of black forrest cake for the girls, and a large craft beer, in the solarium. The mountain views as well as the atmosphere was a perfect combination to wrap up our trekking time in the Himalayas.

After strolling the only street one more time to pick up a few unneeded snacks before returning for dinner at our hotel and basically wrapped up our day. Chicken lasagna this time with some Himalayan macaroni, whatever that means. A popcorn snack was followed by a lay down in the first real bed since we left Kathmandu 16 nights prior. With the sheets pulled up under our noses the girls barely made it to 8:00 and us two managed an extra hour before drifting off asleep.

Day 17: Lukla (2840 m) to Kathmandu (1400 m)

⏳ 40 minute flight

Alarms rang bright and early for us on this day. We were scheduled for the first flight out of the day and as the weather in the mountain changes rapidly it is not uncommon for it to be the last. By 5:45 our packs were on our backs and we were out the door. This time however we were loads lighter than before. After talking to the hotel owner we arranged for a care package to be left that would be distributed to whomever porter or local that required it. I left my zip off trekking pants, full zip merino wool hoodie, two 1 litre water bottles, the girls fleece pants and four pairs of hiking boots for anyone that needed them.

Upon doing so, Shannon and I both were forced to carry the girls the final 300 metres to the Tenzing-Hillary Airport wearing our slip on rubber shoes as the girls had nothing to put on their feet but their wool slippers.

The sky was clear and crisp and the check-in process was as smooth as we hoped the flight would be. There is always the typical airport confusion with multiple airline companies and multiple lineups but once the basics were in order, us and many others were just left playing the waiting game. Soon we could see our little plane bobbing down the runway followed by two others hot on its tail. We were standing on the tarmac now as the door opened and a dozen fresh faces made their way down the five steps to their next life changing adventure. The smell of clean clothes wafted our direction. The thunderous noise of the engines was a dramatic shock to our system after the silence of nature that had filled our ears for so long. Once boarded on the all window seat plane we strapped ourselves down and waited for the door to close. The stubby descending runway made for a quick take off as we took to the air and the pilot navigated his way down the valley. Our 17 days in the mountain had officially come to an end and we were already missing it.